Panarea is the smaller, more fashionable, livelier sister in the Aeolian island chain. There are plenty of Italian fashionistas strolling through the streets straw beach bag in hand. The island of Stromboli is front and center in the background with its active volcano puffing out whisps of white smoke. It is a pedestrian only island, with the taxis of choice being golf carts buzzing through the cobblestone lanes. There is plenty of swimming in the azure water, wooden ladders ready to climb back to shore. The afternoon we were there, two teenage boys were diving for sea urchin which they add to a delicious pasta, a favorite on Panarea. The Hotel Raya where we spent the night was definitely boho chic. We met the lovely owner Myriam who is a self proclaimed free spirit from the sixties and likes to stop and chat with the guests. The rooms cascade down the stone hills and offer panoramic views of the island and of neighboring Stromboli. The terrace of the hotel is the spot to have a glass of wine during sunset and maybe that decadent sea urchin pasta for dinner.